Banger or bus? Used cars for the price of a bus pass

Public transport is all very well, but it's no banger

A First National ticket will set you back £625. We sniff out bangers for less than this and a few other items besides

There’s a stark choice. Either join the queue, be at the mercy of timetables and share your ride with lots of other people or do Bangernomics – the science of buying and running an old car for next to nothing.

And you can find good cars for the price of a bus season ticket. True, this isn’t the time for going out and buying a used car, but it’s the perfect time to plot and research your next purchase so you can pounce as soon as Covid-19 restrictions are lifted.

We’ll show you how to pick a motor that’ll be safe, practical and reliable – no matter your meagre budget, circumstances or requirements. We’ll also prove that it’s possible to have fun – because if buying a banger doesn’t involve having a laugh, you’re doing something wrong.

*Minibus for the price of a bus pass*

We randomly chose a First National ticket that, for £625, will get you in and around Ipswich for a whole year and allow you as far afield as the Nacton Crossroads, wherever that is. But just imagine you want to take your extended family of seven elsewhere.

*2008 Renault Grand Espace 2.0 DCI Dynamique, 187,000 miles, £625: *These big French ’buses are so stylish and good at swallowing people. The cheaper ones have covered loads of miles so you need to be jolly careful because they are a bit flimsy. The diesel engine is great, though, and will deliver 35mpg-plus.

*2005 Toyota Corolla Verso 2.0 D4-D, 125,000 miles, £600:* Here’s a compact car that’s huge inside, especially with the rear seats folded. Toyota isn’t known for diesels, but these are tough and economical. Reliability is good. Ideally, buy from a loving family rather than from a dealer getting shot of an unwanted part-exchange.

*2003 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI Auto, 140,000 miles, £550:* The most numerous people carrier of all. There are so many that you should be able to find a half-decent one. Its Volkswagen-sourced diesel engine is a proper workhorse. The Galaxy is nice to drive and very easy to own and fix.

*2002 Honda Stream 2.0 VTEC, 176,000 miles, £500:* This is a proper MPV with a peach of an engine. At this price, it will have done loads of miles, but that’s just what they do: keep on going, for mile after mile. It’s certainly better than the legions of Vauxhall Zafiras that clog up the classifieds.

*2001 Fiat Multipla 1.9 JTD, 120,000 miles, £600:* Stylish old thing these days, with the 3x3 seating layout, which is better than most ’buses. And it seems to be able to take day-to-day punishment, having proved itself on the taxi rank. Find a 1.6-litre petrol for possible Ultra Low Emission Zone compliance.

*A luxury motor for the price of a Bentley fountain pen*

The thought of a pukka Bentley ink pen with a part-ebony wood finish is very appealing, but we can’t help thinking that, with £1050 to spend, we could get something that has a big engine and leather instead.

*2003 Lexus GS300, 110,000 miles, £990:* The good old LS is a cliché barge and the cheaper ones are getting really old. Instead, the more youthful GS makes sense. They’re great value at the moment. Looked-after ones rarely if ever go wrong but, when they do, you’ll need to have saved up.

*1996 BMW 735i SE, 115,000 miles, £1000: *We have lots of love for BMW’s scaled-up 3 Series. It’s fun to drive, is always comfortable and, when maintained properly, does a hard shift between MOT inspections. Suspension takes a pounding. As with all these big old barges, buy older and mostly better.

*2001 Jaguar XJ 3.2 Executive, 100,000 miles, £995: *Cheap big Jags are a Bangernomics constant. It’s hard not to love these X300-series models. They can have interesting electrical issues and suspension wear is an expensive fix, but the mechanical parts are quite sturdy and nobody does leather and wood better.

*2000 Mercedes-Benz S430, 130,000 miles, £990:* Not so solidly built from the 21st century onwards but, if you find a family-owned S-Class, it’s a big, comfy buy. Rust on the wheel arches and doors spoils the effect. Check the coolant and find out about recent work. The surviving 1998-2002 models are much better than you think.

*2001 Audi A8 4.2 Quattro, 120,000 miles, £875: *You could have a 2.8 entry-level model but there are also examples of the big V8 4.2 version around, possibly with all sorts of surprises. It’s always good to see some recent expenditure at the very least. Quattro four-wheel drive means that you’ll never be stranded. Shame it looks like a giant A4, though.

*Sports car for the price of fancy trainers*

Goodness me, you can’t get fancier footwear than a pair of Christian Louboutin Spike Sock trainers, which cost £965. Trainers are supposed to make you faster and look cool on the bus. Instead of rocking these abominations, you really should buy yourself a proper sports car for the same money.

*2001 Audi TT 1.8T Quattro, 110,000 miles, £1000:* It’s incredible that these haven’t yet turned into more expensively priced classic icons. So hurry while stocks last. Coil packs fail, instrument clusters go dark or misbehave, and the suspension can be an MOT failure point, so it may need a set of bushes.

*2003 BMW 320Ci, 170,000 miles, £1000: *The best-looking 3 Series yet? It will cost relatively little to find out. There are some terribly modified ones around, but smart buyers stick to the clean, stock models that still look like an M3 without the badge. It’ll need history and a recent timing belt receipt to be a safe buy.

*2007 Hyundai Coupe 2.0, 100,000 miles, £950:* Squint and you might think that it is a Jaguar or Aston Martin – seriously. That’s reason enough to buy. The other is that Hyundai equals reliability. So you get a good-looking sports car that can be run for i30 money. Target the few-owner examples and you’ll be fine.

*2004 Toyota Celica 1.8 VVT, 102,000 miles, £800:* Fabulous to look at and great to drive. Surprisingly quiet and relaxed on the motorway, too. The 1.8-litre 190 version is the model to buy if you want serious performance. At this stage of its life, you’ll find lots of stupidly modified ones and those in need of tyres and suspension parts, so be discerning.

*2005 Alfa Romeo GT 2.0, 75,000 miles, £895:* Old Alfas are always a cause for concern, but a buyer’s bravery will often be rewarded with a proper driving machine. This one is a pretty and purposeful little car that will put a smile on your face. The less complicated petrol is the sensible way to go.

*Off-roader for the price of the new Defender's off-road pack*

We’ve all sat and specced ourselves one of those new-fangled Land Rovers. For £1405, you can get black roof rails, a domestic plug socket, an electronic active differential and some off-road tyres. Or you could, of course, get a complete 4x4.

*2004 Toyota RAV4 2.0 D-4D XT3, 100,000 miles, £1399: *Here is something that’s Defender sized. It may not be as square, but its diesel engine is tough and its build quality is great. The 2003-06 model is relatively fixable compared with later versions. It’s just like a high-up car and the perfect used compact SUV.

*2005 Kia Sorento 2.5 CRDi XE, 140,000 miles, £990: *The Sorento is a grown-up 4x4. It’s the equal of a Land Rover Discovery but far cheaper and much less likely to break down. XE models have a manually selectable 4WD system activated by a button on the dashboard. It can cope with pretty much all muddy and watery eventualities.

*2002 Subaru Forester 2.0 Turbo, 200,000 miles, £999: *A slightly pumped-up estate car but what a magnificent machine. It’s good to drive and powerful, with a decent boot, but the rear seats are slightly cramped. Parts can be very expensive if all is not well with the 4x4 system.

*2004 Daihatsu Terios 1.3 Sport, 100,000 miles, £1400:* These are worth finding. The 2000-07 model is a box on wheels that really can get down and dirty. Pay top money and get a well-equipped little thing that’ll be all the 4x4 you’ll ever need. Most important, these are bombproof.

*2003 Jeep Cherokee 2.5 TD Sport, 115,000 miles, £1200: *Cherokees have bags of character, look the part and, unlike most off-road softies, can mix it in the mud. The plasticky interior spoils it for some and overall it isn’t very sophisticated, but that’s a big part of its charm. It has decent standard kit, too. Tyres and suspension are expensive to replace, though.

*Roadster for the price of a posh umbrella*

Spring is now here and you always need an umbrella, especially when getting off the bus. But instead of a Dolce & Gabbana brolly at £975 (it has an eagle head), get the wind in your hair in a posable drop-top.

*2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK 200, 120,000 miles, £865:* Better than a tired CLK, the SLK is slowly gaining classic status, but without prices being tugged into the stratosphere. It has an insanely complicated roof, of course. It’s still possible to find quite tidy ones with a complete service history, but there are sometimes rust and electrical issues.

*2005 Smart Fortwo Cabrio, 121,000 miles, £695:* Basically, an umbrella on wheels. It’s a clever town car that makes an awful lot of sense and can be bought for buttons. The engines won’t do big mileages, so if it has done more than 100,000 miles, it has either been rebuilt or will soon go pop. Check the roof for leaks and that the gearchanges are smooth and it should be okay.

*2004 Ford StreetKa Luxury, 80,000 miles, £850: *There are a colossal number of these in circulation – and that’s reason enough to go and pick a good one. You might look daft in one, but they are cheap to buy, fun to drive and easy to fix. Rust has always been a Ka issue, but overall it was built quite well by Pininfarina.

*2005 Saab 9-3 2.0 Linear T, 109,000 miles, £995:* When you need a proper four-seat drop-top with some style and value, it has to be a Saab. Some criticise the body wobble, but really you’re using this to waft, not to roll around a track. Check for oil and coolant leaks.

*2003 Mazda MX-5, 115,000 miles, £995: *Mk2 MX-5s are now the entry level, because the Mk1s are terminally rusty or being restored. It’s the easy choice, but they’re perfect for the budget buyer who still wants entertainment. Corrosion is becoming an issue, as are dodgy brake calipers, peeling paint and sticky windows.

*Bangers from bus makers*

Firms that build proper buses must also be pretty good at spacious, practical, tough cars. After all, they’re just like buses but with fewer seats.

*2004 Saab 9-5 Estate 2.3 Vector, 110,000 miles, £795: *Saab may be gone, but it shared a badge with Scania. The closest it got to a people mover was the exceptional 9-5 Estate. Even the old model still looks stylish. It’s satisfying to drive and has bags of room, but the diesel engine can be smoky and leaky and the turbo can fail.

*2005 Renault Grand Scenic 2.0 VVT Privilege, 70,000 miles, £490:* There are lots of Scenics in circulation at the moment and the Grand version has a few more centimetres to play with. The petrol ones are especially cheap and worth finding because they’re more reliable. This isn’t the most solid of vehicles and its electric windows and dashboard can go on the blink.

*2003 Volvo V70 2.4 D5 SE, 158,000 miles, £999:* It’s impossible to go wrong with what is the consummate load hauler from the Swedes. It has the legendary flat load bay and there are seven-seat options for maximum family flexibility. The petrols are good but the diesel suits it perfectly. The V70 will take huge mileages and still look fresh.

*2007 Mercedes-Benz R-Class 320 CDI SE, 88,000 miles, £2450:* Overlooking the silly little Vaneo and dodging the great big V-Class van, the poshest bus Mercedes made is the old R-Class. It never caught on, but it’s well equipped, useful and, above all, comfy. The alternative is a musty E-Class Estate.

*2002 Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT Connoisseur, 180,000 miles, £995: *We’re stretching it a bit here, but Ashok Leyland is still using the sinkhole logo and making buses in India. Rover is the distant relative and the 75 Tourer isn’t the biggest, but it’s so wonderfully trad. Plus that BMW diesel engine seems to go on forever. It’s becoming rather desirable now, too.

*How not to get busted when buying a banger: the 11-point budget used-car buying guide*

 Set a buying budget. Choose one that you can afford and stick to it.

 Overlook the cosmetics. Paint a bit iffy? Irrelevant. Dent on the door? The more the merrier. Terrible colour? Whatever. Stain on the seat? Well, go and buy a cover.

 Do an MOT check. This saves you a journey. Go to the government website and look at ‘MOT status and previous history’. Instantly, you’ll know how it has been looked after and whether there are any outstanding advisory issues.

 Talk to the seller. Don’t rely on emails or texts. Speak to them and ask blunt, difficult questions politely. Ask what the problems are with the car. Often they will tell you. Make sure they have paperwork.

 View the car at the seller’s home or dealer’s forecourt. Don’t make arrangements to meet halfway or at a motorway service station – and always take a mate with you. Get a data check (to ensure the car is not stolen, on finance or written off) before you go. Look at local cars.

 Look under the bonnet. When the engine is cold, look for any rust and check the level and condition of the oil. Ideally, it should be clean (honey, not black) and at the correct max level with no hint of bubbles. Are the hoses secure and in good nick or perished and covered in gaffer tape? Ideally, you want to see a clean and dry environment.

 Inspect the bodywork. Although we don’t care what it actually looks like, it really is important that all the doors open, shut and lock. Serious rot in the sills, bulkhead or floor means you should walk away.

 Check the tyres. It’s nice to see the same brand of tyre on each wheel as it suggests that someone has cared. At the very least, tyres must be legal and reasonably treaded. Remoulds, bulges, bald spots and different patterns are bad, as are gouged alloy wheels.

 Start the engine. First of all, it shouldn’t be pre-warmed. The seller will have done this for a reason, usually because it’s a swine to start from cold. With a diesel, it might be worn out and lacking compression. Ask your mate to stand at the back and check that there’s not loads of smoke.

 Take a test drive. You don’t want to hear crashes, bangs, screeches or whines. The steering shouldn’t pull to the side and the suspension shouldn’t make odd sounds or sag. Afterwards, check for leaks, smoke and strange noises.

 Haggle. Finally, if you discover anything that the seller hasn’t brought to your attention, that’s an excuse to chip the price. Start with a stupidly low offer and work upwards from there. Good luck.

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