'Fight Crab' is a bizarre, joyous experiment in crustacean combat

There stands a snow crab, spindly and splendid orange, on top of a wooden table inside a Chinese restaurant.

Across the table is a coconut crab, a beefy thing with green blotches along its back and thick, meaty claws. In those meaty claws is a halberd, a medieval weapon that’s a cross between an ax and a spear with a sweep...