Noma’s closing exposes the contradictions of fine dining

Noma’s closing exposes the contradictions of fine dining

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Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of the world-class Danish restaurant Noma, in Copenhagen, Denmark, on May 31, 2021. Redzepi recently announced he would close the restaurant at the end of 2024. | Thibault Savary/AFP via Getty Images Noma, no more. It’s been a bad century for what we used to call…

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