Don’t Send Compliments to the Chef and Other New Rules of Dining Out in 2023

A FEW HOURS before service at Ilis, a newly opened restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, two-dozen or so young cooks in crisp black-linen shirts and olive-drab aprons stand around tables and islands, deep in prep. In one corner of the former warehouse, two of them carefully seal large surf-clam…

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